Feature: The White Stuff

The majority of us consume some dairy food every day, whether as a splash of milk in our morning tea or coffee, yoghurt with fruit at breakfast, cheese in our lunchtime sandwich or ice cream for dessert. In fact, dairy products are so ubiquitous that we eat them without even thinking about the host of macro- and micro-nutrients they deliver in a freely available and easily digestible format. 

However, as the long journey towards net zero gains momentum, dairy foods are coming under increasing scrutiny due to the environmental impact of their production. At the same time, traditional dairy foods are in competition with the growing number of plant-based alternatives that are claimed to be more ecologically sustainable, while also offering greater health benefits. So, are we within hailing distance of a time when animal-based dairy products will become a thing of the past?

According to Philip Lymbery, CEO of Compassion in World Farming and the author of Sixty Harvests Left, it really isn’t that simple. He says: “With the interest in plant-based milks rising rapidly in recent years, they are now made from a growing number of different crops, with soya, almonds, oats, rice and coconut amongst the most popular.” He adds though, that while their production obviously sidesteps animal welfare issues, there is no real certainty when it comes to assessing their environmental impact. 

He goes on to explain that this is because agriculture is the main driver of deforestation and land use change globally. For example, it is estimated that an average 10 million hectares of forest have been cleared every year since 2015, an activity that negatively impacts wild habitats, biodiversity and the release of carbon stores into the atmosphere.  

According to research, soya milk needs 61% less land than the dairy equivalent, produces 76% less greenhouse gas emissions and is four times less polluting of water, but if that soya is grown at the expense of the Amazon rainforest, it cancels out all of the environmental positives. 
Lymbery continues: “In Brazil, industrially farmed soya is expanding by hundreds of thousands of hectares every year and because monocultures of crops like soya don’t have the natural pest-control defences of mixed farms, high amounts of pesticides are used.” He goes on to claim that Brazil is responsible for a fifth of global pesticide usage and nearly half of it is sprayed on soya.

When it comes to almond milk, it’s a similar story. Conventional almond production is also heavy in pesticides and presents a trade-off between water use and climate; a litre of almond milk needs 17 times more water than dairy, although its greenhouse gas emissions are 10 times less.
“This is why it’s vital that consumers carefully check the provenance of their chosen plant milk before they buy,” cautions Lymbery and he adds that foodservice operators should also rigorously quizz their suppliers about the origins of plant-based milks so that everyone in the supply chain can make a properly informed decision. 

Tess Warnes, a dietitian at allmanhall agrees that dairy products remain a major contributor to dietary emissions, especially when compared to plant-based alternatives. She says: “It’s estimated that dairy – milk, yogurts, cream, cheese, and dairy desserts – is responsible for 11.7% of our total dietary greenhouse gas emissions, making it second only to beef consumption.” She admits that by contrast, plant-based dairy alternatives typically have a lower environmental impact as they generally require fewer resources and generate fewer emissions, but stresses that the nutritional content between dairy and plant-based alternatives varies widely, with the latter unable to offer the same wide breadth of nutrients. 
“Dairy is a rich source of high-quality protein, carbohydrates, fats, calcium, iodine and other essential micro nutrients,” she continues, adding that while it typically contains a higher proportion of saturated fat when compared with most plant-based alternatives, except for coconut milk, it also provides more protein too, with the exception of soy milk. In addition, Warnes urges care caterers to be aware that plant milks can also contain free sugars and other additives, which can adversely affect their nutritional quality. 

She observes that unlike dairy, most unsweetened plant-based dairy alternatives contain little or no carbohydrates or protein, meaning that this will have to be supplemented through other dietary sources. More worryingly, they also provide little in the way of calcium and iodine, which support bone health, brain development, muscle contraction and many other critical biological processes. 

Although some plant-based beverages are fortified with calcium, there are concerns about its bio-accessibility, which has been found to be alarmingly low, often less than 5% when compared with 30% for traditional dairy milk. This seriously challenges the health claims frequently made by many plant-based beverage brands. And when it comes to iodine, very few plant-based alternatives are fortified with this important mineral, the primary UK dietary sources of which are milk and white fish. 

Warnes concludes: “This is why it’s so vital that care caterers properly evaluate the nutritional efficacy of plant-based options, by scrutinising the information on the packaging.”

Lab-made milk

On a more positive note, Lymbery reveals that scientists are now working towards developing a synthetic version of dairy milk by using a process known as precision fermentation, which is based on replicating the symbiotic relationship between the cow and the microbes in her gut. The aim is to train the microbes to produce specific building blocks of food by adding yeast and fungi to modern fermentation tanks, a process that is being pioneered by Perfect Day, a Californian start-up business. The company’s fermented milk, which apparently tastes identical to cow’s milk, uses a combination of yeast, cow DNA and plant nutrients. The main issue here is to persuade a sceptical public, which is already grappling with the concept of man-made meat, that these manufactured foods are safe, palatable and desirable.

Until that happy day, the majority of us will continue to stick to the real thing. Ruth O’Sullivan, a nutritionist at Brakes, declares that dairy is a staple in almost every meal opportunity and is a particularly useful ingredient for care caterers. “It is such a great fortification tool, especially for residents who are undernourished,” she says. This is because dairy products can be used to effortlessly add both calories and nutrients without making a meal noticeably larger – an important point when trying to tempt those with more delicate appetites.  

O’Sullivan continues: “Milk can be added to cereal and porridge at breakfast, served as a hot – or cold – drink, cheese can be added to mashed potato at lunchtime and there are endless options for milk-enriched desserts, including custards, ice cream and that retro favourite, Angel Delight.” She also offers that milk can be further fortified by mixing four heaped tablespoons (60g) of skimmed milk powder into a pint of whole milk. “This makes it even more nutritious without changing either the taste or consistency,” she explains.
O’Sullivan welcomes the growth of dairy-free alternatives for those who are lactose intolerant or have dairy allergies, as well as residents who are following vegan diets. But like Warnes, she advises the diligent study of labels to ensure that only the most eco-friendly and nutrient-rich plant-based varieties are used. 

We all scream for ice cream

When it comes to including dairy in every meal, Joe Yates, development and training chef at Carpigiani UK, reveals that there is some interesting research being conducted regarding the possible health benefits of ice cream. He contends that when ice cream, frozen yogurt and sorbet are made from scratch, the chef has full control over the ingredients used and thus has the freedom to tailor the recipe to suit the nutritional needs of individual residents. 

He says: “This can facilitate the reduction of the refined sugar content and the opportunity to include probiotics. For example, elderberry is high in vitamin C, hibiscus contains antioxidants and aloe vera is great for boosting immunity.” These and other equally vitamin-rich ingredients can be added to produce a dessert that is very palatable, while also providing residents with valuable extra nutrients. He goes on to reflect that for residents suffering with dysphagia, a thicker, soft-serve ice cream, sorbet or gelato offers the ideal way to provide them with good fats and quality ingredients in an appealing package that is relatively easy for them to eat. He adds that Carpigiani’s portfolio of gelato, soft-serve, milkshake and frozen drink machines are manufactured to successfully churn both dairy and non-dairy mixes as they automatically adjust the mix to the desired consistency.

Marion Candy, trade marketing and activation controller at Lakeland Dairies, agrees that soft-serve ice cream and its variants make a good staple dessert. “With its soft texture and gentle mouth feel it’s a simple pleasure that is also easy to consume,” she declares, adding that Lakeland Dairies’ Comelle brand ice cream mixes perfectly balance sweetness and taste. “They are delicious when eaten as a stand-alone pudding, especially for residents with swallowing difficulties, but also make the ideal accompaniment for hot puddings too.” 

Candy adds that all the Comelle ice cream and milkshake mixes, which are also available in versions that cater for those following vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and halal diets, can easily be made using a soft-serve ice cream machine and, since they have a five-month shelf life, they can be easily stored until required. 

CONTACT
allmanhall: allmanhall.co.uk
Brakes: brake.co.uk
Carpigiani: carpigiani.co.uk
Compassion in World Farming: ciwf.org.uk
Lakeland Dairies: lakelanddairies.com

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